Oscar Hunt X Mr Theodore
Is a black suit really just a black suit?
Meet Chris Edwards from the iconic Oscar Hunt Tailors. Chris chats with Mr Theodore this week and offers some integral suiting advice as well as deciphers the wedding ‘dress code’ for us.
FOR MANY GROOMS, A SUIT IS PROBABLY ONE OF THE LAST THINGS ON THE ‘TO DO LIST’ AND THEY HAVE NO IDEA WHERE TO BEGIN. CAN YOU GIVE US A BASIC LOW DOWN ON THE MOST COMMON SUIT STYLES THAT TODAY’S STYLISH GROOM SHOULD CONSIDER.
The most common suit style for a wedding still remains the classic dinner suit. This might be a black or midnight navy suit with black silk lapels. We construct many of these styles as they are a timeless classic – always sharp and a great addition to any wardrobe. If you are thinking about something less formal than a dinner suit we have seen a shift towards separate jacket and trouser combinations. Maybe a tan or check trouser paired with a lighter jacket or something a little more daring. Adding a complementary pocket square can really round out this stylish and modern look.
I LOVE NOTHING MORE THAN A CLASSIC BLACK SUIT, WHITE SHIRT AND BLACK TIE, BUT IS A BLACK SUIT REALLY JUST A BLACK SUIT?
Black is definitely not just black! When it comes to tailored suiting, you have the opportunity to choose from an enormous range of black fabrics. You can have matte black or a black wool/silk for a luster in the finish. You can have heavy black fabrics for winter weddings or look to lightweight blacks for the summertime or if you’re planning on being active (i.e. heavy dancing) in your suit. You can opt for a wool/mohair for an incredibly sharp finish whilst maintaining a high degree of breathability. In terms of styling you can dress it up (with more formal finishings), or dress it down with casual pockets for example.
WEDDINGS GENERALLY COME WITH A DRESS CODE, WHAT STYLE OF SUIT CAN WE EXPECT TO SEE A GROOM WEARING AT ANY OF THE FOLLOWING WEDDINGS.
BLACK TIE…
Black Tie is second only to White Tie on the formal scale. Therefore dress to impress. This involves dinner suits – either classic or with some colour. Bow-ties tend to be the norm with formal dress shoes.
FORMAL…
Traditionally speaking, “Formal” is either Black Tie or White Tie. The important thing to remember with a formal dress code is NOT to improvise (wear a dinner suit) and make sure you know how to tie a bow tie.
COCKTAIL…
Cocktail generally means a suit (often a dark suit) with a tie. Crucially, you don’t want to look like you’ve come straight from the office so do your best to work in a few elements of the night – a pocket square, crisp shirt, suspenders.
CASUAL…
Casual can have an “anything goes” stigma attached to it, and it basically is just that. Maybe avoid crocs and anything with holes/stains. If it is for a wedding a well-cut jean and crisp shirt should do the trick, or a tailored short for a destination wedding.
WHAT TIPS WOULD YOU GIVE FOR KEEPING IT LOOKING CLASSIC, CLASSY AND SOPHISTICATED?
Keep it simple. A well-cut suit goes a (very) long way to achieving a classic and sophisticated look. Make sure the suit is pressed, the shirt ironed and the shoes polished. Simple accessories are a great way to enhance the look - a simple white pocket square or a beautiful self-tie bow tie.
WE ARE IN AN EXCITING TIME WHERE MANY COUPLES ARE MOVING AWAY FROM THE TRADITIONAL WEDDING PROTOCOLS AND OPTING TO CREATE A WEDDING THAT IS UNIQUE TO THEIR PERSONAL STYLE. WHAT CAN WE SEE SOME OF THE MORE CONTEMPORARY GROOMS OPTING FOR?
We are seeing a lot more colour in the wedding looks as well as an exploration into different fabrics such as wool/mohair, cottons and linens. We are also seeing a move towards more playful accessories and quality footwear.
WHAT ARE SOME GREAT WAYS GROOMS CAN CREATE AN INDIVIDUAL LOOK BUT STILL REMAINING SHARP.
Again, the foundation of a sharp look is a well-cut suit. Therefore that is where I would start. From there I would add some subtle yet unique items to build in the individuality: items such as suspenders, a vest or a pair of beautiful shoes. You can also play around with colour so long as the colours complement the overall look.
AND FINALLY, BOW TIE OR TIE?
It does depend on the look of course, but for me, almost always a bow tie.
Oscar Hunt Tailors feature on the Mr Theodore directory. Click here to find out more about them.