In Conversation With Tailoring Extraordinaire: Godwin Hili of Godwin Charli
He is a tailoring extraordinaire, specialising in tailored suiting for all genders, and recently we caught up with Godwin Hili, founder and designer of Melbourne based Godwin Charli. Our conversation covers everything you need to know about suiting for your big day.
Words Mr Theodore
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MR T: Godwin, give us a little insight into who you are and what you do?
GH: So, my name is Godwin Hili, and I'm the founder and creative director of men's and women's made-to-measure fashion brand Godwin Charli. My business is one that was born from a passion to help people look and feel their absolute best. From as far back as I can remember, it was always about that - even before I had the idea of a business. I love the process of introducing customers to well-fitted garments and observing the transformation; it's that passion for helping people that still drives me today.
MR T: We love all your garments, you take a look at your work, and it is above and beyond incredible, what you've created is such a beautiful product. How long have you been working in the world of fashion?
GH: I was fortunate to get to my first gig as the Assistant to the Festival Director of L'Oreal Melbourne Fashion Festival back in 2004.
At the time it was Robert Buckingham, and he literally just threw in the deep end, and it was that jolt of excitement that projected me into this space and I eventually then launched my brand in 2007.
MR T: So, tell us about the Godwin Charli experience and walk us through the process from that initial walk into your showroom until the wedding day itself…
GH: The process starts with an initial conversation and consultation in my showroom. This is a time where I really get to know and understand you and your partner.
I like to move through the themes or the look and feel that you are aiming for. Now, if you don't have that, then no stress whatsoever, that's why I'm here. I'm here to extract the goodness from your relationship and translate it into something visually incredible, which is why I encourage couples to come to see me first because I can solve those initial confusions a lot earlier in the process and relieve a lot of that stress!
Once we decide on your style direction, I perform what we refer to as a 'Fit Profile' where I make size, body and shape observations which end up forming part of your overall pattern for any garment orders moving forward.
When you come into my showroom, you can touch and feel everything. I believe that's really really important, and if you're a sample size, you'd be lucky enough to try them on as well which is really good.
The making of the garments takes four weeks from placing that order and receiving the garments for that second fitting. When you come back in to try everything on for the first time, this is where we make any observations around fit and make necessary adjustments. In most cases, if I've done my job properly and you've maintained your size, you can take the garments home with you. In the need of alterations, we turn these around in under a week.
MR T: As couples embark on their wedding planning journey, obviously for them there's so much to think about - what venue, florist etc. At what part of this journey do you suggest that they start looking into what they're going to wear and who that want to go with?
GH: The best time to engage any of your suppliers is once you have a good idea of your theme. I think you can't make good decisions around style unless you understand what it is you truly want. By that I mean, is it a black-tie event? Is it a more relaxed affair? Is it outdoors? Is it indoor? Is it going to be a formal ceremony? Is there going to be a party that will involve an outfit change?
I think these decisions need to be made first in order to get the most out of the styling experience with me. On the other hand, if you have no idea where to start, I can walk you through my collection to assist you along the creative process.
Just don't leave it too late!
MR T: You touched on it briefly, but for couples not really knowing what style of wedding they're having and they're a little overwhelmed with choice, how do you guide them through this process and what do you suggest?
GH: I think the best way to remove any kind of stress is to have a 'meet and greet' in my showroom.
The beauty of what I do is that my space is full of great designs and ideas. I've got over 15 years of experience styling weddings so I can just help the conversation move forward. I've just done so many, and I've seen so many well-executed events that I can cut out all the crap and get straight to it. I generally enjoy that process, and a lot of the things that you may find to be stressful or challenging to get your head around are made so much simpler when a simple conversation is had.
Godwin Charli is one of the few tailors that specialises in tailoring for all genders.
MR T: With your wealth of experience, couples are definitely guided by someone who knows what they're doing; I'm definitely confident in your suggestions and your guidance.
Let's talk about tailoring for women because that is something that you are very big on…
GH: I am one of the rare few designers that specialise in tailored, made-to-measure tuxedos for women. I've been creating, designing and fitting women since 2007 so have learnt so much around what actually works.
MR T: What is your favourite part about women's tailoring?
GH: I love that my range is inclusive and can be adapted for most female shapes. My collection is extensive and more than just a black tuxedo. I think I surprise women when I show them what is possible. It's not just the men who get to have all the fun when it comes to suiting!
“I love the process of introducing customers to well-fitted garments and observing the transformation; it's that passion for helping people that still drives me today.”
MR T: Now, with COVID, the wedding scene is changing. Let's talk about smaller and intimate weddings because this is a topic that is hot at the moment - micro weddings, elopements etc.
So what are some style options and looks that you would suggest for couples that are having a wedding with just five people?
GH: The key thing is to have the wedding you've always wanted; whether it is four people in attendance or 400. I think you shouldn't hold back on your special day. Obviously, dress for the occasion, just because we're having more intimate affairs, it doesn't mean that we have to restrict our vision or restrict having the event that we've always dreamed of having.
MR T: Another question that we get asked so often here at Mr Theodore is when it comes to two groom weddings. Do I wear the same as my partner, or do I have the freedom to wear something completely different?
GH: There's no hard-fast rule here. Some couples like the idea of matching, and others love the contrast. What I try and do is find ways in which I can connect the two. Now, it may not be in colour, but it may be in form, it might be an intricacy of the lapel shape, it doesn't have to be matchy-matchy where one's light and one's dark.
At the end of the day, my goal is to ensure you both look amazing as a couple.
MR T: Give us your predictions for looks for 2021 and beyond. I know 2019 and 2020 what we saw was a lot of two groom weddings with one in a white dinner jacket and one in a black, that that was hugely popular. What do you predict would be the looks for the seasons moving forward?
GH: Look, classic black tie is going nowhere. It's classic and timeless for a reason! I still think it's a relevant look and will remain a relevant look. It also depends on the time of the year and the style of celebration you're having. I'm also seeing a lot happening around textured velvet. The Italians, in particular, are constantly developing new ways to represent velvet, so I have an offer of velvet chords, textured velvets, different shades of velvet. Signature Navy and Black are no longer your only options, but if you're looking to sort of push the envelope think outside the square that's when I really come into my element.
I also offer a Private Collection service where I can share the latest and greatest from my Italian and English mill offerings. Here, we take the showroom collection to the next level, and it becomes an entirely bespoke service where I tap into my many years of experience sourcing fabrics from the best, and really pick out those unique fabrics that will bring your look to life.
MR T: Lastly, before we finish up, sum up the Godwin Charli experience in three words…
GH: In three words… the Godwin Charli experience is passionate - Because I'm extremely passionate about what I do.
It's enjoyable - I want the experience to be fun for you.
And, unique. There's nothing like what I do.
We recommend reaching out to Godwin Charli as soon as possible if you are currently planning your wedding.
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