OHLIGUER: Standing Out In The Luxury Jewellery Industry With A Unique Approach
Ohliguer stands out in the luxury jewellery industry with its unique approach, blending a rich family heritage with contemporary design. Trained under Bvlgari’s esteemed design director, Jessica infuses her creations with unparalleled craftsmanship and innovation. We uncover how Ohliguer’s distinctive vision and meticulous artistry define its exceptional jewellery pieces.
Interview Alexander Ross
“My family’s rich history is what informed our passion for jewels, and my training in Europe working with jewellery design icons reaffirmed my vision to create an iconic Australian jewellery Maison.”
Can you share with us the story behind Ohliguer, and how its heritage has influenced the brand's contemporary designs?
My great-grandmother was reputedly married to the last Tsars cousin. Her father supplied jewels the size of reptilian eggs from his mines in the Ural Mountains to the royal family and the most renowned Russian jewellers. She fled the empire at the height of the revolution, embarking on a perilous journey that would eventually lead to Australia. Ohliguer is about capturing that mystery, peril and mastery through extraordinary jewels. Our heritage inspires us to push the boundaries.
Designing a crown for Madonna must have been an incredible experience. Could you walk us through the creative process and any challenges you faced in bringing such a unique piece to life within a short timeframe?
Madonna is an icon, transcending genres and epochs. So, for me, at the forefront of my work was the notion that this same iconicity needed to be embodied by the pieces that I create for her. When B, (Madonna´s stylist) told me that Madonna wanted a crown of thorns for a subversive Vanity Fair shoot. I immediately said "doesn't Madonna want to do something different? A crown of thorns has already been done?" B. was completely on board with the vision and so I quickly sketched a crocodile tail crown of thorns. It was rich with symbolic references yet concurrently subversive. After an insanely stressful two weeks creating something that would typically take a minimum of six months to craft, our diamond setters were champions working throughout the night. I hand delivered it to B. She immediately put it on - upside down – I hadn´t even considered the possibility yet it made it all the more dramatic and I knew then why B. is a powerhouse in the industry and a pillar in Madonna´s continual reinvention.
Jess' training with the design director of Bulgari sounds fascinating. How did this experience shape her approach to jewellery design, and what elements from that training have become integral to Ohliguer's aesthetic?
Her time in Roma studying with the jewellery greats taught her the power of creativity and the artistry of jewels. Luca is extraordinary and his guidance was foundational to Ohliguer. He led us to focus on iconicity in our designs and exceptionality in our craftsmanship. In Jess' own words “When I trained with Bvlgari’s brilliant and now retired Design Director, Luca Bartoleschi, the creator of one of the most iconic designs in the history of Italian high jewellery. Bartoleschi asked me, what is going to be the iconic OHLIGUER jewel of Australia, like the Serpenti is to Bvlgari, and so my inaugural collection The Croc was born.”
Ohliguer's pieces often exude a sense of timelessness and sophistication. What design elements or techniques do you believe contribute most to creating these iconic and enduring pieces?
“My family’s rich history is what informed our passion for jewels, and my training in Europe working with jewellery design icons reaffirmed my vision to create an iconic Australian jewellery Maison,” said Jessica.
Sustainability is becoming increasingly important in the world of fashion and luxury goods. How does Ohliguer incorporate sustainability practices into its design and production processes?
Ohliguer only uses ethically sourced materials and stones. For me, true luxury is about provenance. Understanding the origin of the materials that we work with is integral. It is part of the reason that I prefer to work with antique diamonds, Australian akoya pearls and opals from Lightning Ridge, as they are clearly traceable. It is certainly difficult. However, we currently only work with suppliers that have ethical certification. We also have a revitalisation initiative which enables our clients to trade in their old jewellery for a credit towards an Ohliguer piece. I think there is some taboo around this issue but for me, jewellery is to be worn and weather it is a gift or an inheritance, we respect the essence of that piece and enable you to celebrate its significance by transforming it into a contemporary piece.
Ohliguer's creations seem to effortlessly blend tradition with modernity. Could you elaborate on how the brand strikes this balance in its designs, and why it's important to maintain that connection to heritage?
I believe following trends and focusing on profits will only lead to sameness. A sameness that plagues the industry and will only lead to consumer boredom. To advance our legacy and truly stand out, I strive for every one of our creations to capture the essence of our heritage in a way that transcends the chains of time.
Collaboration seems to be a key aspect of Ohliguer's ethos, whether it's working with renowned artists or partnering with other brands. How do these collaborations come about, and what do you feel they bring to the brand's identity?
Largely organically. Often stylists and editors approach us with a concept and a need for jewels that will elevate or add an edge to their look. It is often off the cuff and almost always with a pressured time frame. They serve to keep us agile. These collaborations are an enduring catalyst for creations. One must be resourceful, for instance perhaps the stylist is after a bolo tie for an album cover shoot, we have to look at the gemstones that we have on hand or can source with a tight deadline and create a piece that captures the vision of the celebrity yet distinctly Ohliguer.
Your jewellery pieces often feature intricate detailing and craftsmanship. Can you tell us about the techniques behind the creation of Ohliguer's jewellery, and how you ensure each piece is of the highest quality?
Ensuring our pieces are of the highest quality begins with the careful sourcing of the materials. We work with 18ct and 22ct ethical gold exclusively. We work closely with a multitude of suppliers for gemstones that are certified to be of the highest quality. Every aspect of every piece needs to be considered. A tell-tale sign of quality is the back of a piece. For us true craftsmanship involves attending to the back with the same intricate detail as the front.
Looking to the future, what exciting developments or projects can we expect from Ohliguer in the coming years? Are there any new directions or collaborations on the horizon that you're particularly excited about?
We are always looking to the future. We will be in Rome later this year to shoot our upcoming engagement ring collection. The collection which we plan to drop before Christmas aims to provoke discussion around and break wedding industry norms.
OHLIGUER can be found on THEODORE by CLICKING HERE or on Instagram at @ohliguer
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